- Soil
- 45°F
- Seed
- Sown or started indoors
- In the ground
- -4–-2 weeks before the last spring freezeApr 3 – Apr 17
- Fall sowing
- 6–8 weeks before the first autumn freezeAug 16 – Aug 30
Vegetable Planting Calendar by Zone: When Each Crop Goes In
A hardiness zone is where a planting date starts, not the date itself. This calendar takes the median last spring freeze and first autumn freeze of all nineteen USDA half-zones — 5,363 station records, from 1b in Alaska's interior to 10b in California and Florida — and counts each crop's window from them: two to four weeks before the last freeze for the cool-season group, the fortnight after it for the warm-season one. The part no calendar can measure decides the day: the soil, the week ahead, and the days the crop still has.
At a glance
- The record
- 5,363 NOAA station records, each with the 1991–2020 normals for its own coordinates and the USDA half-zone it sits in.
- Half-zones dated
- Nineteen, from 1b to 10b: a median last spring freeze, a median first autumn freeze, and the colder-tenth pair beside them.
- Crops on the board
- Seven, each with the window its own extension publication gives: lettuce, carrots and potatoes before the last freeze, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and beans after it.
- Before planting
- Read the soil at 3 inches, read the 7-day forecast, then count the days the crop has left in the season.
Where your dates sit in the record
Each row is one USDA half-zone, coldest at the top and warmest at the bottom. The bar runs from that half-zone's median last spring freeze to its median first autumn freeze, and the darker band inside it is what the colder tenth of years leaves.
Pick a half-zone and read the crop dates
Every date below is counted from the two median freeze dates of the half-zone you choose: the crop's own window, converted into the days it lands on where you are.
6a · -10 to -5°F
614 stations in the record
Across the half-zone, last spring freeze runs from Apr 6 to Jun 21.
- Last spring freeze
- May 1
- First autumn freeze
- Oct 11
- Frost-free season
- 163 days — 136 in the colder tenth of years
| Crop | Soil | Seed | In the ground | Fall sowing |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LettuceFrost-hardy | 45°F | Sown or started indoors | -4–-2 weeks before the last spring freezeApr 3 – Apr 17 | 6–8 weeks before the first autumn freezeAug 16 – Aug 30 |
| CarrotsHalf-hardy | 45°F | Sown where it grows | -4–-2 weeks before the last spring freezeApr 3 – Apr 17 | 10–12 weeks before the first autumn freezeJul 19 – Aug 2 |
| PotatoesHalf-hardy | 45°F | Sown where it grows | -4–-2 weeks before the last spring freezeApr 3 – Apr 17 | 8–10 weeks before the first autumn freezeAug 2 – Aug 16 |
| TomatoesTender | 60°F | 6–8 weeks before, indoorsMar 6 – Mar 20 | On or after the last spring freezeMay 1 – May 15 | Spring only |
| PeppersTender | 65°F | 8–10 weeks before, indoorsFeb 20 – Mar 6 | On or after the last spring freezeMay 1 – May 15 | Spring only |
| CucumbersTender | 65°F | Sown or started indoors | On or after the last spring freezeMay 1 – May 15 | Spring only |
| Bush BeansTender | 60°F | Sown where it grows | On or after the last spring freezeMay 1 – May 15 | Spring only |
- Soil
- 45°F
- Seed
- Sown where it grows
- In the ground
- -4–-2 weeks before the last spring freezeApr 3 – Apr 17
- Fall sowing
- 10–12 weeks before the first autumn freezeJul 19 – Aug 2
- Soil
- 45°F
- Seed
- Sown where it grows
- In the ground
- -4–-2 weeks before the last spring freezeApr 3 – Apr 17
- Fall sowing
- 8–10 weeks before the first autumn freezeAug 2 – Aug 16
- Soil
- 60°F
- Seed
- 6–8 weeks before, indoorsMar 6 – Mar 20
- In the ground
- On or after the last spring freezeMay 1 – May 15
- Fall sowing
- Spring only
- Soil
- 65°F
- Seed
- 8–10 weeks before, indoorsFeb 20 – Mar 6
- In the ground
- On or after the last spring freezeMay 1 – May 15
- Fall sowing
- Spring only
- Soil
- 65°F
- Seed
- Sown or started indoors
- In the ground
- On or after the last spring freezeMay 1 – May 15
- Fall sowing
- Spring only
- Soil
- 60°F
- Seed
- Sown where it grows
- In the ground
- On or after the last spring freezeMay 1 – May 15
- Fall sowing
- Spring only
Windows follow each crop's own extension publication, listed under Sources, and each crop's soil floor is the one the planting calendar works from. For one garden's dates rather than a half-zone's, look up the station nearest you.
Three readings that decide the day
A window says which fortnight is usually safe. These are the readings that say whether this week is, and each one takes a minute.
The soil
60°F
Soil at 3 inches, read an hour after sunrise: a tomato or a bean roots at about 60°F, a pepper or a cucumber at about 65°F, and lettuce at about 45°F.
How to check
Push a soil thermometer 3 inches into the bed the crop is going into and read it an hour after sunrise rather than at noon. Oregon State's germination table lists each vegetable's temperature range and the days it takes to emerge at each temperature.
If it fails
A cold bed does not kill a warm-season transplant, it stalls it. Hold the plants in their pots, keep them watered, and take the next warm week rather than the first safe date.
The forecast
32°F
A freeze warning is issued when the growing-season low is forecast at 32°F or below. A frost advisory covers 33°F to 36°F on a clear, calm night.
How to check
Read the 7-day forecast the day before a warm-season sowing and look for the words freeze warning or frost advisory. Both are forecasts rather than records, so they name the risk for one week in one place.
If it fails
If the week turns cold, cover what is already up and keep the rest in the pots. A fortnight of row cover costs less than reseeding a bed of stalled transplants.
The room left
10–12 weeks
The longest count back from the first autumn freeze on the board: carrots for a fall harvest go in 10 to 12 weeks before it, the widest fall window in the guides behind each crop.
How to check
Count back from the first autumn freeze before sowing anything for a fall harvest. The seed packet's days to maturity plus a fortnight of harvest window has to fit between the two dates the half-zone gives.
If it fails
When the count lands before the last spring freeze, the season cannot carry a second sowing of that crop. Grow it once, in spring, and give the weeks that are left to something that finishes faster.

Start with these moves
- 1. A half-zone gives a window of two to four weeks rather than a day: its dates are medians across the stations inside it, and a garden sits somewhere in that spread.
- 2. Cool-season crops go in two to four weeks before the last spring freeze; warmth-loving crops wait for the fortnight after it.
- 3. Inside one half-zone, what separates a tomato from a pepper is the soil temperature they root in — about 60°F against about 65°F — not the week on the calendar.
- 4. The colder tenth of years takes weeks off both ends of the season, which is the margin the cold-year dates measure.
- 5. A half-zone narrows the season, a station dates the window: the median for a garden's own coordinates, from the lookup, is the sharper number than its half-zone's headline date.
What the half-zone dates are
Every date on the board comes from the record behind the site's frost-date lookup: 5,363 NOAA stations, each with the 1991–2020 climate normals computed for its own coordinates and the USDA 2023 half-zone it sits in. A half-zone's spring date is the median of the stations inside it — the date half of them freezes on or after — rather than the average of all of them. The distinction matters: freeze dates cluster with a long tail of late years, and an average is dragged out into that tail by a handful of cold springs.
A median is a fifty-fifty date, and the Missouri Extension guide to frost probabilities is the clearest statement of what that means: at a station whose median last freeze is April 20, half the years freeze after April 20. The colder-tenth date beside it is the same calculation one decile further into the tail, and it is the one to plan a transplant around when the crop cannot afford a setback.
- The record's window is 1991–2020, the normals period the NOAA products are built on.
- The zone lines come from the 2023 USDA map; the dates come from the station record rather than from the map.
- Your own station's median is the sharper number, and a lookup takes about ten seconds.
Why two gardens in one half-zone plant weeks apart
A half-zone is a band on a map, and the stations inside it disagree. Elevation, distance from water, slope, soil texture, wind and shelter each move a freeze date, and a garden at the bottom of a valley can freeze a fortnight after one on the ridge above it. That spread is why the zones are drawn in five-degree bands rather than as a single number per region, and why a board of half-zone medians still leaves room for two neighbours to plant at different times.
The sharper reading is not the band. The lookup takes one station's coordinates, and that station's median across its own winters anchors a window better than the half-zone it happens to sit in: the zone narrows the season, the station dates the window. Two gardens with the same zone number but different elevation, water and shelter are genuinely on different calendars, which is how one zone chart is right in one yard and a fortnight early in the next.
- A coastal garden and an inland one in the same half-zone can sit weeks apart at both ends of the season.
- A raised bed against a south wall loses its frost earlier than the same soil in the open.
- Count a window from the nearest station's dates rather than from the half-zone's headline number.
The two ends of the season are different measurements
The last spring freeze is a risk that arrives once and is over; the first autumn freeze is a deadline that closes in all season. A window counted forward from the spring date is waiting for safety, and a window counted back from the autumn date is racing a clock. That asymmetry is why a late spring freeze costs an early sowing without shortening the autumn at all.
It is also why the fall sowings here count backwards from the first autumn freeze, and why a half-zone with a short season loses its fall windows rather than getting them moved earlier: twelve weeks before a late-August freeze is ground that is still frozen in June. Where a crop cannot fit a second sowing, its row says so instead of printing a date that will not work.
- Spring sowing: count forward from the last spring freeze.
- Fall sowing: count back from the first autumn freeze.
- Seed starting: count back from the last spring freeze — six to eight weeks for tomatoes, eight to ten for peppers.
The soil decides the day the window opens
A window is a range of dates that are usually safe; the soil decides when the crop actually roots. Lettuce, carrots and potatoes work from about 45°F, tomatoes and beans from about 60°F, peppers and cucumbers from about 65°F — which is how the same crop goes into two gardens three weeks apart inside a single half-zone. Those floors come from the crop record the live planting calendar works from, so the window beside a crop and the recommendation in the calendar cannot tell two different stories about it.
Where the probe goes decides the answer: the same bed that reads 60°F at noon can read 52°F at dawn, and the dawn reading is the one the roots meet. A raised bed against a south wall reaches it a week or two before the low ground beside it, which is why one half-zone holds both a March sowing and an April one.
- 45°F covers the cool-season group: lettuce, carrots and potatoes.
- 60°F is the warm-season floor for tomatoes and beans; 65°F is the one for peppers and cucumbers.
- Cold soil does not only slow a warm-season crop; it rots the seed before it sprouts.
The last check is the week ahead
The National Weather Service issues a freeze warning when the growing-season low is forecast at 32°F or below, and a frost advisory from 33°F to 36°F on a clear, calm night. The two products describe two different nights: an advisory is a light ground frost that marks tender growth, a warning is a killing temperature at plant level. Neither of them appears on a zone chart, and either can arrive in the fortnight after a window opens.
So the order is zone, then window, then the week ahead — and a cold forecast after the window has opened does not close it. A crop held in its pots through a cold snap is usually ahead of one planted into cold soil, and row cover, a cloche or a warm wall buys back most of a fortnight. A half-zone's date is the date to start paying attention rather than the date to stop thinking.
- Read the 7-day forecast the day before a warm-season sowing; both products name a week's risk rather than a season's.
- Row cover, cloches and a warm wall buy back a week or two of a cold snap.
- A crop held back a week in its pots is usually ahead of one planted into cold soil.
The half-zone gives the window. The garden gives the day.
Every date here is a median from a station record, which makes it a good plan and a poor promise. Take the window, take the crop's soil floor, then read the week ahead before anything goes into the ground.
Count the crop's weeks from your own last frost date rather than from the half-zone's headline number.
Read the soil at 3 inches before a warm-season sowing, not the calendar.
Watch for a freeze warning or a frost advisory through the fortnight after the window opens.
Use the live planting calendar to turn broad zone timing into a real planting decision for your location.
The guidance here draws on the references listed below.
- USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map (2023)
- NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information: U.S. Climate Normals (1991-2020)
- NOAA Climate.gov: Average date of last spring freeze (1991-2020)
- University of Missouri Integrated Pest Management: Missouri Frost/Freeze Probabilities Guide
- Oregon State University Extension: Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination
- National Weather Service: Understanding cold weather alerts (freeze warning at 32°F)
- National Weather Service: frost and freeze hazard criteria (freeze warning at 32°F or less, frost advisory at 33–36°F)
- University of Maryland Extension: Growing Lettuce in a Home Garden
- University of Maryland Extension: Growing Carrots in a Home Garden
- University of Maryland Extension: Growing Potatoes in a Home Garden
- University of Maryland Extension: Growing Tomatoes in a Home Garden
- University of Maryland Extension: Growing Peppers in a Home Garden
- University of Maryland Extension: Growing Cucumbers in a Home Garden
- Purdue Extension: Growing Beans in the Home Vegetable Garden (HO-175)
Quick answers before you head back outside
These are the questions that usually come up once the guide turns into real garden work.
What is a vegetable planting calendar by zone?
It is a table of planting windows keyed to the USDA half-zone a garden sits in. The one here dates each window from the half-zone's median last spring freeze and median first autumn freeze, so the answer is a range of dates for each crop rather than one month for all of them.
Why do two gardens in the same zone have different planting dates?
Because a half-zone is a band on a map and the stations inside it disagree. Elevation, water, slope and shelter can move a last-frost date by two to three weeks within one zone, so a station near the garden anchors a window better than the zone's name does.
Do tomatoes and peppers really go in at the same time?
Their windows open together, in the fortnight after the last spring freeze, but their soil floors differ: a tomato roots at about 60°F and a pepper at about 65°F. A pepper sown into a tomato's week sits still until the soil catches up, which is how one window can be right for one crop and early for the other.
Are these dates safe enough to plant without checking again?
No. A median date means half the years froze later, so a window includes years that turn cold again after it opens. Read the soil, read the 7-day forecast, and treat a freeze warning in the first fortnight as the season's normal last move rather than an exception.
Where do the freeze dates come from?
From the station record the site's frost-date lookup answers from: 5,363 NOAA stations with the 1991–2020 normals computed for their coordinates, each carrying a USDA 2023 half-zone. A half-zone's dates are the medians of the stations inside it, recalculated from the record rather than transcribed from a chart.
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